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April 2nd, 2006, 05:52 PM
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Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,687
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How to read spark plugs
This is kind of a lost thing on our generation from what i've seen. You can tell a lot about what is going on inside a motor by the plugs.
http://www.densoiridium.com/howtoreadusedplugs.php
Quote:

Normal- Light grey or tan deposits and slight electrode erosion

Carbon Fouling- Dry, soft black carbon on the insulator and electrodes.
Symptoms: Poor starting, Misfiring, Faulty acceleration
Causes: Faulty choke - over rich air/fuel mixture, Delayed ignition timing, Bad ignition leads, Plug heat range too cold

Pre-Ignition- A melted or burned center and/or ground electrode, blistered insulator and aluminum or other metallic deposits on the insulator
Symptoms: Loss of power causing engine damage, Pre-ignition occurs when combustion begins before the timed spark occurs.
Causes: Plug insufficiently tightened, Engine insufficiently cooled, Ignition timing too advanced, Plug heat range too hot

Over Heating - An extremely white insulator with small black deposits and premature electrode erosion.
Symptoms: Loss of power at high-speed or during heavy load
Causes: Plug insufficiently tightened, Engine insufficiently cooled, Ignition timing too advanced, Plug heat range too hot

Mechanical Damage- Bent electrode and a broken insulator, dents often present on electrode
Symptoms: Misfiring
Causes: Plug nose is too long for engine head, Foreign object (bolt/nut) in combustion chamber

Oil Fouling- Wet, oily black deposits on the insulator and electrodes
Symptoms: Poor starting, Misfiring
Causes: Wrong piston rings, cylinders, and valve guides, Fuel mixture oil content too high (two-stroke engines)

Broken Insulator- Insulator is cracked or split
Symptoms: Misfiring
Causes: Severe detonation, Incorrect tool/torque applied during installation or removal, Careless gap setting

Torched Seat- Melted in the thread and seat area of the plug housing
Symptoms: Loss of power causing engine damage
Causes: Plug insufficiently tightened
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April 3rd, 2006, 08:51 PM
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Boost Addict
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 469
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Good info Nick, this is very important info for all home mechanics to know whether the car being worked on.
__________________

30th Anniversary Camaro Z28: K&N CAI, PaceSetter LT's, ORY, Deleted Cats, Magnaflow Cat-back, B&M Shift Kit
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April 4th, 2006, 05:01 AM
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TJ Addict
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: lake stevens, wa
Posts: 2,444
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why dont those jerks say anything about carbon tracking?
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April 6th, 2006, 10:18 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gs-R-less in New York.
Posts: 1,136
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my plugs look like the ones in the overly rich condition yet my problem is im running lean. unless when i altered the fpr to 50psi since im running stock injectors on my gsr its now slightly rich. dont know.
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April 27th, 2006, 10:48 AM
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Supercharged Samurai
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 681
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nice thread, more people should see this... of course, you can find the same thing in the back of every haynes manual...
great info.
__________________
2001 Honda S2000
201.63 whp : 135.74 ft/lbs
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June 26th, 2006, 10:51 PM
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Made Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 149
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Great post man! I just checked mine recently and all that I can really see is a little bit of oil on the plug hardly noticable. 
__________________

91' CRX HF (stock motor): AEM Short Ram Intake, Buddy Club Spec II Exhaust, Neuspeed Short Shifter, Tokico Lowering Kit, NGK Wires, Wings West RS Body Kit, GS-R Rims, Toyo Proxe T1R's, Pioneer Head Unit, 2 Alpine 12" Type-E Subs, 4 Alpine Type-S 5 3/4" Door Speakers, Custom Enclosure.
RicerGSX on the other forums
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